COST INCLUDES

• Round trip transportation between Seattle and Mount Baker

• Breakfasts and dinners on climb (two dinners and two breakfasts)

• 3 days of professionally guided instruction covering the fundamentals of glacier mountaineering, including ice axe techniques, self-arrest skills, glacier travel, and basic rope systems.

• All group climbing equipment, including climbing ropes and technical hardware

Not Included:

• Hotels/lodging in Seattle

• All expenses incurred in the event of early departure (evacuation fees, transport, etc.)

• Trip cancellation insurance

• Gratuities for guide team

• Personal equipment and lunches. You are responsible for all items on the Gear List.

TUESDAY, MAY 27TH

Mandatory 4 p.m. gear check at Alpine Ascents’ Seattle office, to ensure that everyone is fully equipped and prepared to depart the next morning. Rental gear is fitted and packed at this time. We’ll also review the functionality of each piece of gear, packing our backpacks, wilderness ethics, and Leave No Trace practices. Duration: Approximately 2 hours.

WEDNESDAY, MAY 28TH

We depart at 6 a.m. from the Alpine Ascents office and drive approximately 2.5 hours to Schrieber’s Meadow on the south side of Mt. Baker. We will spend most of the day on the moderately strenuous approach as we start hiking from 3,400 ft. in sub-alpine meadows. The hiking will continue through old-growth forest for the first two hours. We’ll exit the forest at 4,800 ft. and continue up the trail on high alpine ridgelines along with seasonal snow-covered regions. We’ll aim to arrive at camp (6,100-6,600 ft. depending on the year’s snowpack), perched high on the south side of Mount Baker, in the afternoon.

After we settle into camp, we’ll rest for a bit. If route conditions or weather merit a Day 2 summit bid, we will cover snow school skills this evening. We will close out the day with a delicious meal prepared by the guides while enjoying spectacular views of the Easton Glacier from camp.

Training and Planning:
On the approach, instruction includes nutrition, hydration, rest steps, pressure breathing, and temperature management. Guides will also discuss Leave No Trace practices. We will have the option to summit on Day 2 or Day 3 as conditions warrant. If we summit Day 2 – glacier training will be completed afternoon of Day 1. One of the keys to this trip’s success is having two possible summit days.

THURSDAY, MAY 29th

After a good night’s sleep to recover from our approach, we will begin our training. Guides will cover important risk management aspects of the climb, including crampon technique, self-arrest with an ice axe, and traveling on a rope team. This training usually takes 2-3 hours.

After an early dinner, we will head to bed in anticipation of a pre-dawn start for the summit, resting and recovering as much as possible.

Training:
Focus is on the battery of skills needed to competently climb Mt. Baker: cramponing, ice axe usage, self-arrest, roped travel, and movement techniques.

Optional Day 2 Summit Attempt:
Alternatively, if weather or route conditions merit a Day 2 summit bid, we will begin our trip to the summit in the early morning hours (see Day 3 for more details), having trained in all necessary skills on the evening of Day 1.

FRIDAY, MAY 30TH

After a predawn breakfast, we’ll begin our journey to the summit.  The route begins with a climb to the top of the Easton moraine at 7,000 ft., where we’ll access the Easton Glacier. From there, we’ll ascend the gently angled Easton Glacier until we reach the crater rim at 9,800 ft. A nice break will allow us to look deep into the steaming Sherman Crater of Mt. Baker. We’ll then climb up the Roman Wall and crest the summit plateau at just over 10,500 ft. A short walk leads up to the summit of Mount Baker, at 10,781 feet. At a moderate pace, the summit climb should take five to seven hours from Sandy Camp. Clear weather offers an inspiring 360-degree view from this most magnificent North Cascades summit. After celebrating the summit and taking photos, we’ll descend carefully back to Sandy Camp.

 After packing up and a taking a brief rest, we’ll descend the rest of the way to the trailhead. A summit celebration will take place at a restaurant as we return to Seattle. If we summited on Day 2, we will wake up for a leisurely breakfast, cover any final training topics such as glaciology and snow anchors, and descend to the trailhead to celebrate.

Training:
Our summit attempt allows us to implement and enforce what we learned the previous day.

Itinerary subject to change due to conditions.

 *Alpine Ascents recommends flying out no earlier than the morning after your climb.

Check out more logistics here with our partners at Alpine Ascents.

Check out these amazing blogs and webinars

• https://www.alpineascents.com/blog/women-on-top-expert-advice-from-a-mountain-guide-webinar-tips/

• https://www.alpineascents.com/blog/the-ins-and-outs-of-going-to-the-bathroom-and-feminine-hygiene-in-the-mountains/

  https://www.alpineascents.com/blog/kulshan-baker-webinar/

If you are a beginning climber, we strongly advise renting as much gear as possible. Alpine Ascents and other local retailers provide quality rental equipment at reasonable prices. We also offer a 10% discount at the Alpine Ascents Gear Shop located at our offices. We conduct a mandatory gear check at our Seattle offices the day before your climb.

Please note: Climbers must be able to climb at a rate of 1,000 vertical feet per hour. Those who are unable to maintain this pace on Day 1 to camp may not be permitted to attempt the summit on the final day.

THE PHYSICAL DEMANDS YOU ARE SPECIFICALLY TRAINING FOR ARE:

 Hiking with a 35+ lb backpack for 5 hours at a time

Steep climbing and glacier travel with approximately a 15 lb backpack

Moving on your feet for 10-14 hours on summit day

Movement techniques requiring balance, core strength, and flexibility

Certain ascent rates are required for this climb. When hours are prolonged due to slow ascent times, climbers become fatigued, dehydrated, and have a greater chance of getting cold. This also puts the team at risk in rapidly changing weather on the mountain. It is a matter of risk management that climbers ascend at the rates stated below.

BENCHMARK ASCENT RATES FOR 3-DAY MOUNT BAKER CLIMB:

Climb from Schriebers Meadow to Sandy Camp in 4-5 hours. This ascent is about 3,000 feet elevation gain in approximately 4 miles. You will carry a pack of 35+ pounds during this ascent. Meeting this pace and having reserves upon arrival at Sandy Camp is a minimum standard for summit team members. Proper strength training and sport specific endurance work carrying a weighted pack will pay off here.

Climb from Sandy Camp to Summit in 5-6 hours. While this will involve a lighter pack (approximately 15 pounds), it is all above 6,000 feet and covers steeper terrain. Here is where your more challenging training days, like intense weighted hill climbs, will pay off. You want to be able to climb efficiently and clear-headed at this altitude, with plenty in reserve for contingencies and to descend competently.